By John P Brady
Although I had not planned to visit Treviso, I congratulated myself on its discovery. The only cheap accommodation that could be found at short notice was a pensione, the Italian equivalent of a B+B, on the outskirts of town. The only plus was that the airport bus passed by the front door, which made the morning journey considerably easier. The clean en suite room was on the small side but adequate for 30 euro. The large comfortable bed and the en suite facilities were a welcome sight after a week spent in hostels of varying standards.
I was preparing to leave my room when I could hear what sounded like a party in the room opposite. I looked out into the corridor only to see a family of four dancing around their kitchen table. They were clearly long term residents. The man saw me and immediately beckoned me to join them. I had no choice but to accept as to do anything else would have offended him.
His wife and daughter danced around the kitchen table in full traditional Romanian costume, while the son stood by his father looking up at him. The sight will stay with me for a while. The man’s smile was one of total contentment, as he stood by the door proudly showing off his family. I watched their dancing for a few moments knowing I would not see anything like this again for a while.
We were unable to communicate unfortunately, as I had not yet learned Italian (that has been rectified) and my efforts in Spanish and English had limited success. I wished him well and waved goodbye to his family.
I decided to go into town by foot and it turned out to be a good decision, for there were many beautiful sights along the way, not least the walls of the city and the river Sile. I had only one mission in centro, and that was to find food. As the centre was small I had not too many options. There were two restaurants close to the interesting monument in Piazza della Vittoria. Apart from these nothing else was happening that night in Treviso. The town was a little too quiet for its size.
I choose the busier of the two and was lucky to get the last free table. Spaghettaria da Roberto was evidently a popular location, as it was only a Tuesday night and it was doing incredible business. The spaghetti was standard (ironically it was worse than the spaghetti I had eaten in a pizzeria the night before!) which means that it was much better than anything you may find outside Italy, but the red wine, the desert of sorbet and the veg were outstanding. Coming in at less than a tenner for the entire meal, it was fantastic value.
I walked the two km back to the pensione to find two parties in full swing with the residents unconcerned about the time. Three hours later it quietened down and I got a few hours’ sleep before taking the bus to Aeroporto di Treviso-Sant’Angelo and bidding an unwanted goodbye to Bell’Italia.
photo: Didier Descouens
Back to the Gaff
Scandalous Narratives of Contemporary Ireland
Back to the Gaff is a book by new author John P Brady, which describes the excessive and outrageous nature of Irish night life. Meet an array of eccentric individuals who populate the bars of Dublin, living lives of decadence and abandon. Their frolics inevitably lead to a trip ‘back to the gaff,’ which in Dublin-speak means gravitating towards someone’s place of residence where the depravity continues.
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